THE HLB METHOD – A BRIEF EXPLANATION

What is the HLB Method?

It is a time saving guide to working out the optimum amount of emulsifier to create a stable emulsion. It is particularly used for non-ionic emulsifiers.

HLB stands for Hydrophile Lipophile Balance (water loving, oil loving ratio).According to the system all nonionic surfactants/emulsifiers have a HLB value which tells us whether they are more oil or water soluble. So high numbered HLB emulsifiers will be hydrophilic (water loving/soluble) and the lower numbered HLB emulsifiers will be lipophilic (oil loving/soluble). Concomitantly, each lipid (oils, waxes and butters) have a corresponding HLB requirement and by matching the HLB value of the emulsifier with the HLB that is required by the oils you can create a stable emulsion. Under the system, you need a blend of different emulsifiers in order to match the HLB of the oils so 2 and sometimes 3 emulsifiers will work to do this – normally you would need a high HLB emulsifier and a low HLB emulsifier as well as a co-emulsifier such as cetearyl alcohol. The HLB method can be worked out manually (I will write about this method in a blog post) however, we have a nice little calculator that can help with this.

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. So you simply select the oils, butters, waxes and co emulsifiers that you want to use. Typically 6-40%. Enter their name, HLB value and % in formula. this will calculate the total HLB value of the blend of oils.
2. Work out the concentration of the emulsifiers – this is normally between 10% and 25% of the oil total oil phase (this is one failing of the method is it doesnt tell how much total emulsifier to use!) To work out 25% simply multiply the total number of oils (see 1) by 0.25. If it were 10% then you multiply by 0.1. I normally start at 0.25 and adjust by experimentation (if i don’t know a particular blend)
3. Input this in the section that says % of emulsifier in formula.
4. Enter the two or three emulsifiers that you need and their corresponding HLB value
5. It will automatically work out the percent of each emulsifier

Here is a good book dedicated to the subject: The HLB System

GENERAL FUNCTIONS OF EMULSIFIERS

Below are the general categories of emulsions and their functions. This is only indicative as there are always exceptions to the rule and some emulsifiers behave in unexpected ways!

  • HLB RANGE
  • 4-6
  • 7-9
  • 8-18
  • 13-15
  • 10-18
  • USE
  • WATER IN OIL
  • WETTING AGENTS
  • OIL IN WATER
  • DETERGENTS
  • SOLUBIZERS

Oil HLB (Required)
Almond Oil 6
Anhydrous Lanolin USP 10
Apricot Kernel Oil 7
Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Oil 7
Babassu Oil 8
Beeswax 12
Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil 7
Brazil Nut Oil 8
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 13
Canola Oil 7
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 11
Carnauba (Copernicia Cerifera) Wax 12
Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) Root Extract 6
Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) Seed Oil 6
Castor (Ricinus Communis) Oil 14
Ceresin 8
Cetearyl Alcohol 15.5
Cetyl Alcohol 15.5
Cetyl Esters 10
Cetyl Esters Wax NF 10
Cetyl Palmitate 10
Cocoa (Theobroma Cacao) Butter 6
Coconut (Cocos Nucifera) Oil 8
Cyclomethicone required 7.5
Diisopropyl Adipate 9
Dimethicone 5
Rosehip (Rosa Canina) Hips Oil 7
Emu Oil 8
Evening Primrose (Oenothera Biennis) Oil 7
Garcinia Indica Seed Butter 8
Generic Essential Oil 8
Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil 7
Hemp (Cannabis Sativa) Seed Oil 7
Hybrid Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil required HLB = 9 9
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil required 3-5
Isopropyl Myristate 11.5
Isopropyl Palmitate 11.5
Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil 6
Kukui Nut (Aleurites Moluccana Seed) Oil 7
Lanolin 10
Lanolin USP 10
Macadamia (Macadamia Ternifolia) Nut Oil 7
Mango (Mangifera Indica) Seed Butter 8
Mango (Mangifera Indica) Seed Oil 7
Mineral Oil 10
Mineral Oil NF 10
Myristyl Myristate 8
Olive (Olea Europaea) Oil 7
Peanut Oil NF 6
Petrolatum 7
Petrolatum USP 7
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 7
Retinyl Palmitate 6
Rice (Oryza Sativa) Bran Oil 7
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract 7
Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) 8
Sesame (Sesamum Indicum) Oil 7
Sesame Oil NF 7
Shea (Butyrospermum Parkii) Butter 8
Shea Oil 7
Soya (Glycine Soja) Oil 8
Soybean Oil 7
Stearic Acid 15
Stearyl Alcohol 15.5
Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) Seed Oil 7
Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil 7
Tocopherol 6

HLB Surfactant Values
Ceteareth-20 HLB = 15.2
Cetearyl Glucoside HLB = 11
Ceteth-10 HLB = 12.9
Ceteth-2 HLB = 5.3
Ceteth-20 HLB = 15.7
Cocamide MEA HLB = 13.5
Glyceryl Laurate HLB = 5.2
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate HLB = 11
Glyceryl Stearate HLB = 3.8
Glyceryl Stearate SE [HLB = 5.8
Glycol Distearate HLB = 1
Glycol Stearate HLB = 2.9
Isoceteth-20 HLB = 15.7
Isosteareth-20 HLB = 15
Laureth-23 [HLB = 16.9
Laureth-4 [HLB = 9.7
Lecithin HLB = 4
Lecithin HLB = 7
Lecithin HLB = 9
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate HLB = 6.6
Oleth-10 / Polyoxyl 10 Oleyl Ether NF HLB = 12.4
Oleth-10 HLB = 12.4
Oleth-2 HLB = 4.9
Oleth-20 HLB = 15.3
PEG-100 Stearate HLB = 18.8
PEG-20 Almond Glycerides HLB = 10
PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate HLB = 15
PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil HLB = 10.8
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate HLB = 5.5
PEG-4 Dilaurate HLB = 6
PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate HLB = 9
PEG-60 Almond Glycerides HLB = 15
PEG-7 Olivate HLB = 11
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate HLB=10
PEG-8 Dioleate HLB = 8
PEG-8 Laurate HLB = 13
PEG-8 Oleate HLB = 11.6
PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate HLB = 19.1
Polysorbate 20 HLB = 16.7
Polysorbate 20 NF HLB = 16.7
Polysorbate 60 HLB = 14.9
Polysorbate 60 NF HLB = 14.9
Polysorbate 80 HLB = 15
Polysorbate 80 NF HLB = 15
Polysorbate 85 HLB = 11
Propylene Glycol Isostearate HLB = 2.5
Sorbitan Isostearate HLB = 4.7
Sorbitan Laurate HLB = 8.6
Sorbitan Monostearate NF HLB = 4.7
Sorbitan Oleate HLB = 4.3
Sorbitan Sesquioleate HLB = 3.7
Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sucrose Cocoate HLB = 6
Sorbitan Stearate HLB = 4.7
Sorbitan Trioleate HLB = 1.8
Stearamide MEA HLB = 11
Steareth-100 HLB = 18.8
Steareth-2 HLB = 4.9
Steareth-20 HLB = 15.3
Steareth-21 HLB = 15.5